Rhinog Fawr, Nov 2012

So back in November 2012 myself and 2 friends headed over to Snowdonia to attempt the Rhinog traverse. We didn’t make it…

Arriving in Tal-y-bont to stay in a convenient caravan on friday night, we ate pizza and made our preparations for the following day. We were to be up for the first train to Talsarnau to make the ascent up from sea level through the Rhinog foothills up to Llyn Eiddew-Mawr and then on to the Roman Steps and after that, the Rhinogau themselves.

What actually happened was rather less bushy-tailed.

Missing the first train, which would have got us into Talsarnau around 08:40, we had a leisurely stroll on the beach, after waiting for the next train (10 O’Clock) we eventually got on our way up through Talsarnau and Soar at just before 11. Having made less than optimal use of the available daylight (which was due to disappear at around 5 in the afternoon) we made fairly leisurely progress up to the Llyn for lunch, passing through the beautiful woodland around Soar.

Leaving the woodland behind and passing into the rolling grassland between the woodlands and the slightly less hospitable foothills around Clip, the pre-lunch mood of the team was bouyant and happy. The sun was out warming our backs and the temperature was at a balmy 7 degrees. All in all very comfortable and made for a wonderful morning.

After a pleasant lunch on the shores of Llyn Eiddew Mawr, we made our progress South through the thigh deep heather surrounding it, hotly pursued by a few showers rolling in from the Irish sea, a couple of miles to the west. We followed the western shore of the lake over the rock and heather to a gentle gully up the saddle rising between Clip and the higher ground to the west, which on moving over the crest the stunning scene of Cwm Bychan is laid out some 200 meters below you. Descending the moderately steep slope down to the Cwm and the campsite, mostly on foot, and for a breif couple of moments (and a surprising amount of meters) by arse, we came to the small road that runs up to the farm and the carpark, where we stopped to re-organise maps and take a brief rest before the ascent of the Roman Steps.

If there is only one walk you do in this area, then this must be due for consideration. It provides not the usual breathtaking vista, but such an atmospheric and imposing walk that it will not soon be forgotten.

We eventually reached the cairn at the top of the steps, just before the path branches off to the right to the equally menacing Llyn Du and Rhinog Fawr, at around half past 3. Given our pace to that point and the onset of duller weather and drizzle we decided that rather than make a bid for the summit that afternoon and risk being caught out on top in the dark and the rain, that we would head instead straight ahead to Coed-y-Brenin, which has its westernmost extension little less than a kilometer from the cairn. So this we did, finding a suitable camping position amongst the trees and next to the path, about 5 meters from an energetically babbling stream. Bivvy up and food on we managed to make a surprisingly good effort at a camp fire, which given the damp conditions imposed no threat to the surrounding forest, where we waited out the darkness, heading to my bivvy bag at around 10.

All of which would have been fine, had it not been for the half litre of Rum and the ensuing hangover.

7 O’Clock came, left, took 8 O’Clock with it and was being hotly followed by 9 when we finally broke camp and dragged the hangover back onto the hill with us. So that by 10, we had just made it to the still waters of Llyn Du. Thankfully, the view back across the valley was sufficient to partially revive our lesser performing team members, along with a hot drink, to be able to carry on.

Given our current state and the advancing hours of the day it was elected that we forgo the three further peaks of Rhinog Fach, Y Lethr and Dyffws and instead bag the closest, and therefore most time efficient one and get down off the hills in time to make it back to civilisation in time for work tomorrow.

So that’s what we did, we headed up into the mist to the summit of Rhinog Fawr, hitting the top at about 1 in the afternoon.

We descended the mountain to the small hamlet that sits nestled in the valley between the two eponymous Rhinogau in about an hour and stopped for a brief bite of lunch and a hot chocolate before the 8 mile slog along the roads down to Tal-y-bont, the caravan, car and the 3 hour drive home.